Cork Direct floating floor installation
Please read these instructions before beginning an installation. If you have any questions, or if you feel you need more information, please call technical support at (800) 344-CORK (2675), or email us at: email@example.com.
Before installation, floating floor planks must be acclimated.
Store opened cartons of floating floor planks at the job site for a minimum of 48 hours before installing. Store and install between 60 ̊ and 85 ̊ F, and between 50% and 70% relative humidity. If necessary, use the heating and air conditioning system to achieve these conditions before and during installation.
Installation on concrete substrate
Cork floating floor planks may be installed over concrete that is above grade, on grade or below grade. Concrete substrates must be sound, smooth and level within 1/8″ in 10′. If necessary, fill low spots with an appropriate filler and scrape any high spots.
Check the concrete slab for moisture by chipping quarter size sections 1/8″ deep in several places and applying two drops of 3% phenophalen in alcohol solution (readily available at drug stores)with a dropper in each section. If the solution turns red, too much moisture is present for safe installation.
Cover the concrete floor with 6 mil. polyethylene sheets, overlapping the seams by 8″, and tape the sheets together. The floor will be installed over this moisture barrier.
Installation on underlayment-grade plywood and man-made board substrates
The sub-floor must be clean and level. Fill any low spots with an appropriate filler and sand any high spots. The sub-floor must not exceed 14% moisture content measured by electrical resistance. Check basements and under-floor crawl spaces to be sure they are dry and well ventilated to avoid moisture damage occurring after installation. In buildings with crawl spaces, install a ground cover of 6 mil polyethylene over the earth in the crawl space.
In-floor radiant heating systems.
A radiant heat source directly beneath the flooring may cause the flooring to gain moisture or dry out faster than a conventional heating system would. Cork floating floors tend to move as a unit to accommodate moisture changes. Install a 6 mil. polyethylene vapor barrier over slab radiant heat systems, and tape all seams to be sure the barrier is tight. When the slab has cured, turn the heat on, regardless of season, and leave it on for at least 5-6 days before installation. Keep the system on during installation. Maximum surface temperature should not exceed 85F.
Installing a floating floor
A floating floor is not attached to the substrate. The planks click together, and the floor is held down by its own weight. No glue is required for the installation of Cork Direct floating floors. The planks click-and-lock together by inserting the tongue into the groove (don’t try to push the groove onto the tongue). Before you start, be sure to mix the planks from various cartons to maintain a natural variation of color and pattern.
Choose the longest wall that will be parallel to the plank floor. Tap a nail part way into the old floor 1/2″ from the wall at each end of the wall. String a line between the nails 3/4″ above the floor. Use this line to set the first row of planks. The 1/2″space from the wall allows room for expansion. Shuffle the planks for best visual mix. Mix planks from various cartons to maintain natural color and pattern variation.
To begin the first row, in which you will be joining planks at their short ends, remove the tongue from the long side of the number of planks that you’ll need for the first row. Place the first plank at the left hand edge, with the removed – tongue side facing the wall. You will be starting at your guideline 1/2″from the wall, and you will use 1/2″spacers, two to a plank, to maintain the expansion gap. The spacers will keep the planks from shifting as subsequent rows are added.
Using our supplied tapping block and a rubber mallet, place the block flat on the floor, making sure you can see the side labeled “This Side Up for Tapping On Groove”. Gently tap the short end of the second plank until it click-joins with the first, and the space between them is completely closed. Continue the first row until you reach the end of the wall, trimming the last plank to leave a half-inch expansion space.
Please do not use other tapping blocks, as they may mar the wear surface, and please do not continue to tap after a joint has clicked closed.
To begin the second row, you can use the piece cut from the last plank, if it is at least 10 inches long. You want the end-joins to be staggered by at least 10 inches, in any case, so if the left-over from the previous row is shorter, cut a new plank into thirds and use one piece to begin this row. To hold the first row firmly in place while you install the second, a weight, such as a full pack of planks, will be helpful.
Position the long side of the plank to be installed at an angle of 20 ̊ to 30 ̊ to the planks it will adjoin. Exerting a forward pressure, move it slightly up
and down as you press the tongue into the groove, and it will click into place. Repeat with each successive plank, using a number of small taps on the short edge of each until the planks click together completely.
There are some situations in which planks cannot be angled into one another, for example, under a doorframe. In these situations, planks can be fit horizontally. For the long edge, tap the planks together gradually: begin at a corner, tap lightly until the join in made, then repeat every 12-inches until the entire long edge of the plank has clicked into the other. To work around pipes, use a drill with a similar diameter and be sure to leave 1/2″ for expansion.
Usually, the last row will require all planks be cut lengthwise. Measure each plank at several places, and then adjust to leave the 1/2″expansion space along the wall. While the short edges of the last row can be joined using the tapping block, the long edges will require a floor pull bar and the mallet.
After installing the floor, you can walk on it immediately. Remove the spacer blocks and affix the skirting board to the wall, not the floor itself. The floor has to have room to expand and contract beneath the skirting board. If there are any are as not to be covered by trim, use a flexible caulk.
Like all woods in flooring and furniture, cork is sensitive to direct sunlight, and will lighten in color when exposed to the ultraviolet component of bright
sunlight. Curtains, blinds and u.v. – resistant tinting on windows can help prevent this fading.
Cork Direct warrants its products to meet all published specifications and to be free of any and all manufacturing defects. No other warranty is expressed or implied.
Click here for a downloadable pdf version of installation instructions.
Cork Direct’s Floating Floor Plank Technical Specifications
Description: Tongue and groove floating floor planks for commercial and residential applications.
Size: 36″ x 12″ x 1/2″
Composition and Density:Composite cork surface layer: 4 mm, density 28 lb/ft 3 Interlocking MDF layer: 6 mm (1/4″), density 45 lb/ft 3
Cork underlayment layer: 2 mm, density 13 lb/ft 3
Finish: UV-cured acrylic, no organic solvents, no VOCs.
Shock Absorption: [UNE 56 817 74] Initial maximum indentation < 0.19 mm Maximum indentation after 1 hour < 0.08 mm
Indentation: ISO 3810 1987] Initial indentation < 1.7 % Residual indentation < 0 %
Formaldehyde: Interlocking MDF layer: DCOClass E1< 9 mg. per 100 g.
Flammability: Average critical radiant flux 0.60 w/cm2 (unfinished)
Packaging: 6 planks per pack – 18 sq. ft. 60 packs per pallet or 1080 sq. ft.
Storage: Store horizontally
Installation: Glueless, self-locking planks. See instructions.
8” Concrete slab: STC 58db IIC 68db NC 30db
With drop ceiling: STC 60db IIC 73db NC 30db
Click here for a downloadable PDF version of the technical specifications.